Artec 250 - High-End Performance for Everyday Imaging
Discover the Artesky Artec 250 F/3.9 Newtonian Carbon Astrograph Telescope - my main workhorse for astrophotography over the past year. In this video, I take you through the design...
The Space Koala Astrophotography by Luca Bartek Discover the Artesky Artec 250 F/3.9 Newtonian Carbon Astrograph Telescope - my main workhorse for astrophotography over the past year. In this video, I take you through the design...
Note: the video shows me using a ZWO OAG. Due to the large focuser, this requires a modification of the OAG (adding a small spacer on it which the vendor provides). This is the company’s recommended approach. My scope has been modified aftermarket in a different way (the connection of the corrector was modified)
Thanks for adding that as a pinned comment. I believe it will clear the confusion for people who watched your video, proceeded to purchase the Artec scope, thinking they had similar imaging train to yours, and ran into problems. Nothing in Astro photography is ever as easy as plug-in play. it would be useful, if you could elaborate a bit more, how exactly you modified your coma corrector. Maybe other people can replicate the same process to make things work with off axis guider.
I have a QHY 600M camera with the filterwheel and the OAGM-Pro. The big Red adapter causes the OAG body to touch the adapter when trying to attach the camera. It's pretty useless. What did you have done to overcome this issue?
@stephen2615 I just saw this comment - I believe the OAGM-Pro would have to be modified in the same exact way as the OAG-L - you should contact the company and they supply a small space that you put between the "ring" part of the OAG and the helical focuser. Just tall enough for the helical focuser to clear the red ring
@the_space_koala The space required to clear the ring would have to be at least four (if not more) mm and it is the actual body of the OAG not the helical focuser that is hitting the red ring. This issue is nothing compared to the light leak coming from somewhere "below" the M 54 adapter that red ring holds in place. Below means the light comes from the flat generator. It is there when only the M 54 adapter is in place so the camera is not the issue.
That scope is amazing!
Wondering why you’re not using Nina for your mono image train you have on that scope ? Do you find the asiair works ok with mono ?
I do use NINA sometimes but I really enjoy the ASIAIR for its simplicity as I set up and tear down my rig mostly every day. For my purposes it works just fine!
It looks nice almost like a ASA at a fraction of its price..I used to have a TOA 130 same issues like your askar as I'm travelling between houses, I have an Epsilon 160ed with the extender now and an Ultracat91 with the internal focuser(so convenient), I think if you want top portability and great result compromising a bit but not too much in speed the next jump at least for me it's going to be the Ultracat 131 at f4.9 and 648mm and 10kg, I'm done with external focusers hitting the tripod and back focus hassles 😁...unless we wait 20 years and sell our kidneys for an AP155 f6 cs
20 years? did the wait list get shorter? haha
@the_space_koala 😁 you are right.. the list is not even open yet...I pulled the trigger on a redundant UC131 😬 if you travel to Italy happy to lend it for one of your reviews 🙏🏼
What a great scope! I’m happy for you. It’s also beautiful. Clear skies!
Hey ! OCAL H2 8" F/ 2,7 Full Format
$6,700.00 USD? Yeah, no thanks.
You should pair it with a different camera, like ASI2400 or ASI 4400.
How do you take flats with this?
like with any other telescope? I've done both the white t-shirt method as well as used a flat panel with this scope
@the_space_koala Ah ok - I figured perhaps it was too cumbersome to use a huge flat panel with such a big OTA. Thanks for replying.
The 200 might be interesting for me at some point ... if it fits my small observatory. If I'm informed correctly, there are no heating elements both on the primary and the secondary mirrors - what is your experience with dew/ice?
Correct there are no heating elements preinstalled. It’s mostly dry in the mountains where I shoot. I had the secondary fog up one time. Lesson learned was to use a dew shield when it’s humid. However if it’s more humid in your location secondary heating could be a good idea
A beautiful instrument 🤩
super interesting video😀
Hey Luca. Do you use the WP-20 Power edition by any chance? :-) If so, no issue with having enough power through the USB-C power port for your ASIAIR and all connected items?
No I just have the old version of the mount
Great review!!
You didn't show this in your video, but what is the big red thing that seems to be attached to the giant coma corrector at around 6:50 in your video? And how are the threads on the comma corrector attached to it? Can the coma correct unscrew from the double-threaded "cap" that you screw into the focusers and then screw the big red thing onto?
I didn't show this in detail as mine has been modified from the stock version so it wouldn't be very informative. So the giant red ring is standard and if I remember correctly originally it screws onto a housing that holds the corrector. Mine has been modified so that it screws directly onto the corrector which increases my backfocus (well, not really the backfocus, just the usable part of it)
@the_space_koala Can you describe how your version was modified, for what purpose, and if I wanted to get mine modified in the same way who would I contact?
I just received my Artec 200. Thanks for this video!! I see you have a spacer in your attachment. I'm using the same imaging train as you (6200MM, EFW, OAG-L). The stock connectin plate rubs the OAG-L focuser. What size spacer do you have so that you can connect to the OTA? Also, can you please tell me what you use for collimation? I asked Artesky and they said Cat's Eye, but gave no specifics. I asked Cat's Eye and they couldn't recommend anything without measurements. BUt nobody was able to provide the requested measurements. Any info you could provide on recommend collimation tools would REALLY help.
hey, if yours is built like mine it would likely have to be modified - either the connector on the telescope side (like mine) or the focuser barrel of the OAG (probably easier to do). Most artec owners I know use a separate guide scope or a DUO camera but a guide scope Is just not something I can live with. For collimation I currently use a catseye. It's one I had purchased for a different telescope but I find it still works just fine. If you write an email to Jim from CatsEye he will tell you how exactly you can measure the native focal point and then he can tell you which model to get. Though, I am personally planning to buy a laser collimator which I am needing for another scope and will likely end up using that on the Artec as well. I am still currently researching which one to get (as all the lasers seem to come out of the factory miscollimated :D)
@the_space_koala Can you describe how you modified the connector on the telescope side? I can't get the correct backfocus using the OAG. I can file off parts of red ring around the barrel of the OAG. Your system looks different. It looks like you have two 5mm spacers between the connection plate and the camera.
I've had my Artec 200 for several months and have decided it is not the telescope for me.
@davidmoore9563why
grate info, greetings from mexico
I thought you had a 14" SCT? Then again, this OTA is much faster. Must be nice to be rich.
I have an EdgeHD 14, however, the Newt is a much better choice for large nebulas due to the FOV
Bedankt
Thanks for watching! ☺️
If only I had the money... sigh...