I Took This Milky Way Panorama with a Cheap Star Tracker
Milky Way Photography with the MoveShootMove Nomad 🌌 In this video, I take you behind the scenes of one of my most planned Milky Way shots — captured using the MoveShootMove Nomad...
The Space Koala Astrophotography by Luca Bartek
Is there a right angle available for the polarscope? My neck won't go that far back!
Great video and thanks for sharing. Have just bought a second hand Nomad with phone alignment and i also got an alignment wedge. Have been taking pictures of the milky way without star tracker for about 6 years now, finally i got one. Hope that this will be good purchase...
I like your YouTube channel name you don't sound aussie though koala 😊😂❤
no, big fan though!
@the_space_koala love your content, im waiting for my new telescope to arrive should be tomorrow or Friday, it's a seestar S30 pro so can't wait. Greetings from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺 😀
Bellissima recensione 😊
"Cheap" means different things to different people. If $500 is cheap to you, fantastic! Sadly, I have to think for multiple years before spending $500 on a hobby. I am tempted to build my own star tracker for $50 using a wooden mount setup that would probably only work in the northern hemisphere.
I'm aware people have different budgets, this is why cheap vs. expensive doesn't make sense as an absolute statement. What does, though, is comparing the price (just checked, currently $230) to other star trackers on the market, and that is what makes the nomad a cheap option, relatively speaking
Great video and thanks for sharing
You should tilt the altitude adjustment (angle above the horizon) equal to your latitude not 90 minus your latitude.
you do with this device because the motor is perpendicular to the wedge
Nomadのスタートラッカー、小型で良いですね😊 日本ではどこも扱っていません。なぜなのか…。 それとレーザーが日本でも使えないようです。 今はビクセンのポラリエuに極軸望遠鏡を付けて使用しています。とても値段が高いです。 日本でも買えるようになって欲しいです✨
Gateway drug to astrophotography? Perhaps you misspoke. This kind of photography _Is_ a form of astrophotography. And it’s not necessarily easy. I actually find it more challenging to get good results than deep sky through a telescope. There are a lot more things to consider and it’s far less amenable to automation.
I fully agree the wording was not the best. What I meant is that a lot of people already have a camera and so they start pointing it at the sky and that’s how they get sucked in! I do agree it’s very difficult, unless you’re lucky enough to live in a super remote place. Even then, composition is everything and it’s a tough skill to learn
I forgot to add (how boorish of me): Nice image! If you don’t mind me asking, where do you live that you have such nice mountains to use as a foreground? I am envious. All I have are trees and farmer’s fields. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
The rule of 500 applies to Full frame sensors. For Crop Sensors divide 300 by focal length (which is what I have, such as Canon M50, 650D). Not sure what it is for 4/3 sensor but the number to divide will be even less! Thanks for a great video presentation as always, though.
sure, nice point to raise but it's a "starting point" rule, 500 is not even precise for ANY full frame sensor but it's a starting point guide...then reduce the numerator for higher megapixel cameras if trailing occurs or push the numerator higher if an old fullframe with low megapixel count. My whole point of first post was to remind Space Koala that it's a different numerator starting point for crop sensors and other sensor sizes. Another factor that changes the numerator is where you point the camera, as the numerator can be pushed a little higher when pointing at polaris where stars have shorter travel every minute and so can expose for longer than when the camera is pointing away from that direction where stars travel longer distance every minute thus requiring shorter exposures before trailing. However, with a very wide lens that factor doesn't change much, but it will using a tighter frame.
The rule of 500 is also a bit optimistic of high mega pixel full frame sensors….
I do enjoy your videos as you have a wealth of knowledge and are an excellent communicator for imaging the night sky. I am curious what you think about the following: I don’s get all of the hype for the NOMAD? I have been using the Vixen Polarie for some time and it is much easier to set up, polar align and as an aid for imaging the Milky Way. My equipment list is below. It is easy to polar align the Polarie as I only need to do is level the tripod (Desmond DLB-65 65mm Leveling Base) and swing around and elevate the Polarie (Leofoto VH-30 two-way head) and place Polaris within the off-center hole in the Polarie. No polar scope needed to get pin-point star tracking for 3 minutes using Canon 6d with either Sigma 14mm f/1.8 or Sigma 35mm f/1.4 lens. I can even hold the heavy Sigma 14mm lens and camera mounted vertically sit center of gravity above the Polarie mounted on the L-plate listed below. Plus, the Vixen Polarie has multiple tracking speeds: Sidereal Rate (standard star tracking), Half Sidereal Rate (for starscapes), Solar Rate, and Lunar Rate. For Milky Way Wide angle Imaging: MeFoto A2350Q2T tripod Desmond DLB-65 65mm Leveling Base Leofoto VH-30 two-way head Vixen Polarie SIRUI A-10R-CN Ball head Benro PU70 3-way head Camera shoe bubble level Canon RC-6 wireless remote control Canon 6d and modified Canon 6d cameras Lens: Sigma 14mm f/1.8, Sigma 35mm f/1.2, Sigma 50mm f/1.4, Canon 8-15mm L f/4 fisheye, Canon 70-200 L f/4 For Milky Way panoramas remove Benro PU70 3-way head and add camera mounted vertically on a SunwayFOTO Universal L Plate and SunwayFOTO Indexing rotator and discal clamp. What do you think about the Vixen Polarie vs Nomad comparison? Clear sky!
Thanks! Super clear, thorough, and practical. Best overall MSM Nomad video!
thank you. I am glad you enjoyed it
Excellent info. Many thanks.
Lovely video Luca! I just recived the Nomad also & looking forward to test it on my Yt channel on capturing the Milky Way once the rain passes. What was the longest exposure time that you have tested when using the tracker and got round stars? By the way i love the Swiss mountains in your videos, I had to beautiful vacations in Switzerland, but before doing astrophotography, realy miss seeing those mountains live.
hey! TBH I never went higher than 1 minute so I wouldn't been able to tell you what's the longest you can do! enjoy your Nomad!
@the_space_koala Thanks, you too! Congratulations for the progress with the channel in the last year! Would you be interesested in making a colaboration video?
Les smartphones même après rotation etc. ont une précision de +-10° ou pire. Je n'ai jamais réussi à viser des constellations avec . J'ai donc acheté une bonne boussole ; je regarde l'azimut sur Planit pro et je dirige mon objectif avec la boussole. Pour la hauteur j'utilise un application "rapporteur" sur mon téléphone (c'est précis). Je n'utilise pas de tracker, car j'ai un Pentax K3-III qui a un mode Astrotacer : suivi automatique du ciel par déplacement du capteur, ça marche incroyablement bien, même avec mon WO Redcat 51 (250 mm X 1,5 sur PAS-C).
And I always thought that the name Move Shoot Move was because the tracker was so light & so easy to set up, you could Move to a location, Shoot your image and then quickly & easily Move to another location. 😃
well that would also make sense :D
Great Video. That trick with the fast startrails is awesome. I have the old Star Adventurer with a X12 speed on its dial. I will give it a try. Stars should be bright enough to go X12. Maybe star colors will get even better, because the trails are not so heavily overexposed. I that will work, its a complete GAMECHANGER
Good luck! Careful that the foreground will move too 😁
Overall, I liked the video. But I have to ask....if you're shooting the foreground separately, you could just put anything there, like a mountain, a skyline, a tree, your family, etc. How do you preserve the look of the actual location?
Yes you could and I think this is a big ethical dilemma. I personally think it would be pointless to go out to shoot if I shoot the sky separately. But there are people out there who reuse the same Milky Way image and add different foregrounds, or reuse the H alpha shots of an old picture. I personally think for a MW shot you have to do the sky and the foreground in the same session, and you shouldn’t show parts of the sky that were not truly visible there etc. it’s just my personal preference and I fully understand your concern. However, for technical reasons it is never going to be possible to shoot the sky and the foreground in the same image as you’re limited to a few seconds total which is not enough
The most important piece of astrophotography gear is the mount. Above your sky’s bortal classification. It’s the foundation on will all your images are made. Buy poorly in the beginning and you will be spending more money on a better one. If you think you’re wanting to get into astrophotography, start with the mount.
I agree! The quality of your mount will determine how well you can use it, and its ease of use will determine if you actually end up wanting to use it ☺️ with star trackers like this one that are aimed at wide angle / MW shots portability is a huge factor. People end up having to hike to the best locations
Recently got into landscape astrophotography and was so lucky to pick up a Nomad tracker second hand - it’s a brilliant bit of kit - far more portable than the Skywatcher Star Adventurer I originally had. Great video as always 💫✨
wow that is lucky - I'm surprised the Nomad would be on the market as second hand. Hard to think of something to replace it directly. Though I am thinking of selling my original MSM now that I have the Nomad :D
I come from MSM backpacker base and it can hit hard when it’s good. I got the goofy laser aligned and never took it off and it became a lot easier to use.